Every family has their own secret language. It’s a thing
that evolves over time and includes everything from childish mispronunciations
to inside jokes, and I don’t think you ever realize you’ve created this peculiar
thing until you say something that makes non-family members look at you funny.
Invariably, trying to explain precisely why
this is funny falls flat. Suffice to say, “there’s a leek in the boat” should
be this recipe’s real name.
Over the holidays I went a little crazy with the food when
we invited friends over for falafel. My plan was to not have to cook for the
entire rest of the calendar year (I succeeded, btw), so I cooked everything
that came to mind and stuck it all in the fridge after dinner and we dined on
assorted bits and bobs for days. In trying to find a vegetable recipe that wasn’t
pickled or fried, I can across this in one of my older cookbooks. The headnotes
are extensive, the research is impeccable, and pretty much all the recipes have
been delicious; but for whatever reason, I find this particular book a little
intimidating and don’t go back to it as often as I probably should. This recipe,
however, is going to make it into the regular rotation of Things to Take to a
Party, as it’s easy, can be made in advance, is gluten- and dairy-free, is
vegetarian, and is served room temperature (my apologies to those of you that
can’t eat nuts).
From “The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean” by Paula Wolfert.
Leek Pate
3 large or 6 medium leeks, washed and trimmed, white and
tender green parts sliced very thin
½ teaspoon salt
3 large cloves of garlic, unpeeled
½ cup chopped walnuts
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1/3 cup mixed chopped herbs (basil, parsley, celery tops,
mint, etc.)
2 teaspoons mild vinegar (I used rice vinegar)
2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds, for garnish
Steam, boil, or microwave the leeks until almost tender. Add
the garlic cloves and cook 2 minutes longer. Remove the garlic, peel, and set aside.
Drain the leeks and let them cool.
When the leeks are cool enough to handle, squeeze them to
remove as much liquid as possible, reserving 2 tablespoons of the cooking liquid.
Chop the leeks coarsely and put them in a mixing bowl.
Use a food processor to chop the walnuts with the salt,
garlic, and coriander seeds. Mix in the reserved cooking liquid.
Add the walnut mixture and chopped herbs to the leeks and
mix well. Moisten the mixture with the vinegar and season with a little more
salt and pepper. Pack the mix firmly into an oiled ramekin or bowl and refrigerate,
preferably overnight.
Before serving, bring the pate to room temperature. Invert the
ramekin onto a serving plate to unmold and garnish with the pomegranate seeds
before serving. Fantastic on crackers or cut veggies, but you can also just eat
it with a fork.
