Home is Where the Food Is: Spicy(ish) Syrian Potatoes

 As an aspiring culinary student, my daughter naturally asked for cookbooks for Christmas (we clearly don’t have enough of them in our house, LOL). My brother came through in spades with a beautiful, heartbreaking book full of stories from Syrian refugees and the recipes they shared with the authors. When Anna and I were both done reading it cover-to-cover (and crying), we immediately set to cooking from it.

I love cookbooks that read like stories. I realize that there is a widespread online impatience with authors/bloggers who write all sorts of extraneous information before actually getting to the recipe – guilty as charged. But it’s not just the taste/smell/staying alive part of food that I love. I want to hear the stories of why you liked something, or the times you’ve served it, or when you learned to make it. Food is love and home and culture and community and welcome and comfort and all sorts of other things. If I cook for you, you are part of my heart.

It’s fitting, then, that the first time we made these potatoes was for Falafel Night. Falafel Night, in case you’re not aware, is a Big Damn Deal around here; we use a recipe from a book my college roommate sent me from Dubai which involves overnight soaking of beans and grinding and the tedious, loving work of shaping each little oval individually. We only do it a couple of times of year, and always for people that are important to us. It inevitably turns into an orgy of overeating; this time around I made 4 pounds of grapeleaves that didn’t even last until the next day. In a world in which I had no other responsibilities than cooking, falafel would be a weekly event. And since that’s not realistic, these wonderful potatoes will have to do.

While I realize that garlic makes everything magical, the real star here is the Aleppo pepper. I’ve never seen it at a regular grocery store, although markets and high-end chains that sell spices in bulk may carry it. The most reliable source for most people will be Penzey’s spices. Aleppo pepper is dark red and not quite as hot as the red chile flakes you probably have in your cupboard; the flavor is something like what might happen if an ancho chile had a fling with a raisin. I’ll be sure to let you know if I ever fiddle around enough to make a spice mix that approximates it, but I just bought a big jar from Penzey’s so I don’t see that happening anytime soon.

I was going to see how the leftovers – hahahahahahaha, leftovers! Hahahahaha – ahem. I was going to see how the leftovers translated into some of my favorite breakfast dishes today, but the 4 of us ate all the potatoes last night at dinner. Guess I’ll have to make them again.  

Adapted with my editorial comments only from Our Syria:Recipes from Home by Itab Azzam and Dina Mousawi, a title that is even more heartbreaking once you read the stories in it. Never doubt that war is the cruelest thing humans can do.

Spicy Potatoes (Batata Harra)

4 medium yellow potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾-inch cubes (if you make a larger batch, use multiple baking sheets so the potatoes brown instead of steam)
Olive oil, for roasting
Salt, to taste
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 red cayenne chiles, seeded and finely chopped (we’ve omitted these and the potatoes are still delicious; you could also substitute a milder chile for less heat)
1 bunch of cilantro, chopped
1 tablespoon ground Aleppo pepper

Heat the oven to 400.

Roast the potatoes with olive oil and salt for about 30 minutes, turning halfway through, or until they are a nice golden brown color (see above about the perils of doubling this and only wanting to wash one pan).

When the potatoes are almost done, quickly fry the garlic, childes, and half the cilantro until the garlic is golden. Once the potatoes are done, combine the garlic mixture with the potatoes, Aleppo pepper, and the remaining cilantro.